Nice read Heidi thanks

Seekingsantosha's Blog


It’s a thick wave no matter what the size and it’s name clearly dictates the force it will bring as the bottom falls away and the lip hammers down in knee-deep water. The paddle out is short.  A heavy over vertical drop can throw surfers off-balance and if you hesitate for one moment, consequences will be paid. If you sit on the beach long enough all sorts of entertainment can be had including surfers crawling out of the sea like the fish that were a part of the human evolution theory. The more time I spend in the ocean and how it calls me back each time we are apart for too long I start to believe this evolutionary theory to be true. Just the way sea turtles come back to their birthing spot year after year to birth their own eggs. Us surfers are drawn to the sea in…

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